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Journal Publications

Hsu, C.-E., Hegermiller, C., Warner, J.C., & Olabarrieta, M.  “Ocean surface gravity wave evolution during three along–shelf propagating tropical cyclones: model performance of wind sea and swell”. Special issue “Extreme Coastal and Ocean Waves”, Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. Accepted, 2023. 1-23.

Olabarrieta, M., Warner, J.C. & Hegermiller, C. Development and application of an Infragravity Wave (InWave) driver to simulate nearshore processes. Journal of Advances on Modeling Earth Systems. Accepted, 2023. 1-19.

Shi, L., Ortals, C.J., Valle-Levinson, A., Olabarrieta, M. Influence of river discharge on tidal and subtidal flows in a microtidal estuary: implication on velocity asymmetries. Advances in water resources, 177. July 2023, 104446: 1-17.


Phillips, B.M., F.J. Masters, B. Raubenheimer, M. Olabarrieta, E.S. Morrison, P.L. Fernández-Cabán, C.C. Ferraro, J.R. Davis, T.A. Rawlinson, and M.B. Rodgers. An experimental platform to study wind, hydrodynamic, and biochemical conditions in the littoral zone during extreme coastal storms. Frontiers in Ocean Observing: Emerging Technologies for Understanding and Managing a Changing Ocean, 36, January 2023, 64–65.


Klepac, S., Subgranon, A., & Olabarrieta, M. A case study and parametric analysis of predicting hurricane-induced building damage using data-driven machine learning approach. Frontiers in Built Environment, 8, November 2022, 1015804: 1-22. 


Hegermiller, C. A., Warner, J. C., Olabarrieta, M., Sherwood, C. R., & Kalra, T. S. Modeling of barrier breaching during Hurricanes Sandy and Matthew. Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, 127, January 2022, e2021JF006307.


Sherwood, C.R., van Dongeren, A., Doyle, J., Hegermiller, C.A., Hsu, Tarandeep, T-J, Kalra, S., Olabarrieta, M., Penko, A. M., Rafati, Y., Roelvink, D., van der Lugt, M., Veeramony, J., Warner, J.C. Modeling the Morphodynamics of Coastal Responses to Extreme Events: What Shape Are We In? Annual Review of Marine Science, 14:1, January 2022, 457-492.


Zhou, J., Deitch, M.J., Grunwald, S., Screaton, E.J., Olabarrieta, M., Effect of Mississippi River discharge and local hydrological variables on salinity of nearby estuaries using a machine learning algorithm. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 263, December 2021, 107628.


Alonso, A., Nelson, N.G., Yurek, S., Kaplan, D., Olabarrieta, M. & Frederick, P. Estimating the Influence of Oyster Reef Chains on Freshwater Detention at the Estuary Scale Using Landsat-8 Imagery. Estuaries and Coasts 45, May 2021, 1–16.


González, M., Álvarez-Gómez, J.A., Aniel-Quiroga, Í., Otero, L., Olabarrieta, M., Omira R, Luceño A, Jelinek R, Krausmann E, Birkman J, Baptista MA, Miranda M and Aguirre-Ayerbe I. Probabilistic Tsunami Hazard Assessment in Meso and Macro Tidal Areas. Application to the Cádiz Bay, Spain. Front. Earth Sci. 9, May 2021, 591383. 


Valle-Levinson, A., Olabarrieta, M., Heilman, L. Compound flooding in Houston-Galveston Bay during Hurricane Harvey Science of The Total Environment 747, December 2020, 141272.


Liang, H., Kuang, C., Olabarrieta, M., Gu, J., Song, H., Dong, Z. Coastal morphodynamic responses of a mixed-energy and fine-sediment coast to different sea level rise trends. Coastal Engineering 161, October 2020, 103767.


Crotty, S.M., Ortals, C.,  Pettengill, TM.,  Shi, L., Olabarrieta, M.,  Joyce, M.A. ... Sea-level rise and the emergence of a keystone grazer alter the geomorphic evolution and ecology of southeast US salt marshes, Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences 117 (30), July 2020, 17891-17902.


Shi, L., Olabarrieta, M., Nolan, D.S. and Warner, J.C. Tropical cyclone rainbands can trigger meteotsunamis. Nat Commun 11, February 2020, 678.


Hegermiller, C.A., Warner, J.C., Olabarrieta, M. and Sherwood, C.R. Wave–Current Interaction between Hurricane Matthew Wave Fields and the Gulf Stream. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 49, November 2019, 2883–2900.


Shi, L., Olabarrieta, M., Valle-Levinson, A. and Warner, J.C. Relevance of wind stress and wave-dependent ocean surface roughness on the generation of winter meteotsunamis in the Northern Gulf of Mexico. Ocean Modeling, 140, August 2019.


Olabarrieta, M., R.W. Geyer, G. Coco, C. Friedrichs, and Cao(G), Z., Baroclinic effects on the long-term morphodynamic evolution of estuaries. Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, 123, November 2018.


Torres-Garcia, L.M., P.S. Dalyander, W. Long, D.G. Zawada, K. Yates, C. Moore and M. Olabarrieta. Hydrodynamics and Sediment Mobility Processes of a Senile Coral Reef. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 123, October 2018, 7053–7066.

Liang, H., K. Cuiping, M. Olabarrieta, H. Song, Y. Ma, Z. Dong, X. Han, L. Zuo, Y. Liu, Morphodynamic responses of Caofeidian channel-shoal system to sequential large-scale land reclamation, Continental Shelf Research, 165, August 2018, 12-25.

Bertin X,   A. de Bakker, A. van Dongeren, G. Coco, G. André, F.  Ardhuin, P. Bonneton, F. Bouchette, B. Castelle, W.C. Crawford, M. Davidson, M. Deen, G. Dodet, T. Guerin, K. Inch, F. Leckler, R. McCall, H. Muller, M. Olabarrieta, D. Roelvink, G. Ruessink, D. Sous, E.  Stutzmann, M. Tissier. Infragravity waves: from driving mechanisms to impacts, Earth-Science Reviews, 177, February 2018, 774-799.

Olabarrieta, M., A. Valle-Levinson, C.J. Martinez, C. Pattiaratchi, L. Shi.   Meteotsunamis in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico and their possible link to El Nino Southern Oscillation. Natural Hazards, 88, 3, September 2017, 1325–1346.

Zhou Z, Coco G, Townend I., Olabarrieta M., van der Wegen M., Gong Z., D'Alpaos A, Gao S, Jaffe B.E, Gelfenbaum G, He Q, Wang Y, Lanzoni S, Wang Z, Winterwerp H, Zhang C.  Is “Morphodynamic Equilibrium" an oxymoron? Earth Science Reviews. Accepted for publication.

Kaplan D, Olabarrieta M, Frederick P, Valle-Levinson A, 2016. Freshwater Detention by Oyster Reefs: Quantifying a Keystone Ecosystem Service. PLoS ONE 11, 12, e0167694, December 2016, 1-12.

Feddersen F, Olabarrieta M, Guza RT, Raubenheimer B and Elgar S. Dye transport observations and modelling at New River Inlet. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans. 121, 10, October 2016, 7819–7844.

Bertin X and Olabarrieta M. Infragravity waves in a wave dominated coastal inlet. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 121, June 2016, 1-18.

Feng X, Olabarrieta M and Valle-Levinson A. Storm induced Semidiurnal Perturbations to Surges in the US Eastern Seaboard. Continental Shelf Research, 114, 15 February 2016, 54–71.

Adams, P.N., K. Malone and M. Olabarrieta. Beach Morphodynamics Influenced by a Natural Tidal Inlet on the North Florida Atlantic Coast. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms. Earth Surf. Process. Landforms, 41, 15 June 2016, 936–950.

Spydell, M.S., F. Feddersen, M. Olabarrieta, J. Chen, R. T. Guza, B. Raubenheimer, and S. Elgar. Observed and modeled drifters at a tidal inlet, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 120, July 2015, 4825–4844.

Olabarrieta, M., W.R. Geyer, and N. Kumar. The role of morphology and wave-current interaction at tidal inlets: An idealized modeling analysis, J. Geophys. Res. Oceans, 119, Dec 2014, 8818–8837.

Zhou, Z., G. Coco, M. Jimenez, M. Olabarrieta, M. van der Wegen and I. Townend. Morphodynamics of river-influenced back-barrier tidal basins: The role of landscape and hydrodynamic settings, Water Resour. Res., 50, Dec 2014, 9514–9535.

Zhou, Z., M. Olabarrieta, L. Stefanon, A. D'Alpaos, L. Carniello and G. Coco. A comparative study of physical and numerical modeling of tidal network ontogeny. Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, 119, 4,  April 2014, 892–912.

J. Vela, B. Perez, M. Gonzalez, L. Otero, M. Olabarrieta, M. Canals, and J. L. Casamor. Tsunami Resonance in Palma Bay and Harbor, Majorca Island, as Induced by the 2003 Western Mediterranean Earthquake. The Journal of Geology, 2014, 122, March 2014, 165–182.

Zhou, Z., L. Stefanon, M. Olabarrieta, A. D'Alpaos, L. Carniello and G. Coco. Analysis of the drainage density of experimental and modelled tidal networks, Earth Surf. Dynam., 2, Feb 2014, 105-116.

Coco, G., Z. Zhou, B. van Maanen, M. Olabarrieta, R. Tinoco, I. Townend. Morphodynamics of tidal networks: Advances and challenges, Marine Geology, 346, Dec 2013, 1-16.

Valle-Levinson, A., M. Olabarrieta, and A. Valle. Semidiurnal perturbations to the surge of Hurricane Sandy, Geophys. Res. Lett., 40, May 2013, 2211–2217.

Olabarrieta, M., J.C. Warner, B. Armstrong, J.B. Zambon and R. He. Ocean-atmosphere dynamics during Hurricane Ida and Nor'Ida: An application of the coupled ocean-atmosphere- sediment transport (COAWST) modeling system. Ocean Modelling, 43-44, 112-137, 2012.

Bastón, S., M. Olabarrieta, P. Lomónaco, F. Méndez and R. Medina.  Tsunami Response in Semi-enclosed Tidal Basins Using an Aggregated Model. J. Hydraul. Eng., 138 (8), Aug 2012, 744–751.

Kumar, N., G. Voulgaris, J.C. Warner and M. Olabarrieta. Implementation of the vortex force formalism in the coupled ocean-atmosphere-wave-sediment transport (COAWST) modeling system for inner shelf and surf zone applications. Ocean Modelling, 45, Feb 2012, 65-95.

Iglesias, O., G. Lastras, M. Canals, M. Olabarrieta, M. González, I. Aniel-Quiroga, L. Otero, R. Durán, D. Amblas, J. L. Casamor, E. Tahchi, S. Tinti and B. De Mol. The BIG'95 submarine and landslide-generated tsunami: A numerical simulation. The Journal of Geology, 120, 1, Jan 2012, 31-48.

Olabarrieta, M., J.C. Warner and N. Kumar. Wave-current interaction in Willapa Bay. Journal of Geophysical Research-Oceans, 116, Dec 2011, C12014, 1-27.

Olabarrieta, M., R. Medina, L. Otero and M. González. C3: A Finite Volume and Finite Difference hybrid model for tsunami propagation. Computers & Geosciences, 37, Aug 2011, 1003–1014.

Alvarez-Gomez, J.A., I. Aniel-Quiroga, M. Gonzalez, M. Olabarrieta and E. Carreno(F). Scenarios for earthquake-generated tsunamis on a complex tectonic area of diffuse deformation and low velocity: The Alboran Sea, Western Mediterranean. Marine Geology. 284, June 2011, 55-73.

Birkmann, J., Teichman, K.V., Welle, T., González, M., and M. Olabarrieta. The unperceived risk to Europe's coasts: tsunami and the vulnerability of Cadiz, Spain. Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences, 10, Dec 2010, 2659-2675.

Olabarrieta, M., R. Medina and S. Castanedo. Effects of wave- current interaction on current profiles. Coast. Eng., 57, 7, July 2010, 643–655.

Alvarez-Ellacuria, A., A. Orfila, M. Olabarrieta, R. Medina, G. Vizoso, and J. Tintoré. A nearshore wave and current operational forecasting system. Journal of Coastal Research, 26, 3, May 2010, 503–509.

Alvárez Gómez, J.A., M. Olabarrieta, M. González, L. Otero, E. Carreño and J.M. Martínez- Solares. The Impact of Tsunamis on the Island of Majorca Induced by North Algerian Seismic sources. Turkish Journal of Earth Sciences, 19, 2010, 367-383.

V.V. Lima, J.M. Miranda, M.A. Baptista, J. Catalao, M. Gonzalez, M. Olabarrieta, J.A. Álvarez-Gómez, and E. Carreno. Impact of a 1755 like tsunami in Huelva, Spain. Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 10, Jan 2010, 139–148.

González, M., R. Medina, M. Olabarrieta, L. Otero. Tsunami hazard assessment in the southern coast of Spain.  Turkish Journal of Earth Sciences, 19, 2009, 351- 366.

Marcos, M., S. Monserrat, R. Medina, A. Orfila and M. Olabarrieta. External forcing of meteorological tsunamis at the coast of the Balearic Islands. Physics and Chemistry of the Earth, 34, 2009, 938–947.

Alvarez-Ellacuria, A., A. Orfila, M. Olabarrieta, L. Gómez-Pujol, R. Medina, J. Tintoré. An Alert System for Beach Hazard Management in the Balearic Islands. Coastal Management, 37, 6, 2009, 569 – 584.

Castanedo, S., J.A. Juanes, R. Medina, A. Puente, F. Fernandez, M. Olabarrieta and C. Pombo. Oil Spill Vulnerability Assessment integrating physical, biological and socio- economic aspects: Application to the Cantabrian Coast. Journal of Environmental Management, 91, 2009, 149- 159.

Olabarrieta, M., M.S. Castanedo and A.D. Gutiérrez. A local Operational Oceanography model. Procedures to establish a local operational system and its application in cantabrian coast. Sea Technology, 49, 8, 2008.

Dietrich, D., Tseng Y-H, R. Medina, M. Liste, M. Olabarrieta, S. Piacsek. Mediterranean Overflow Water (MOW) simulation using a coupled multiple- grid Mediterranean Sea/North Atlantic Ocean Model. Journal of Geophysical Research, 113, July 2008, C07027.

Olabarrieta, M., R. Medina, and P. Lomónaco. Efecto de la interacción ola- corriente en la propagación de la marea en estuarios. (wave-current interaction effects on the tidal propagation in estuaries). Ingeniería del Agua. 12, 4, Dec 2005, 329-343.

Referred Proceedings: 

Bertin, X. and M. Olabarrieta. An infragravity dominated inlet? The Proceedings of the Coastal Sediments 2015. doi:10.1142/9789814689977_0118.

Castanedo, S., B. Perez-Diaz, A.J. Abascal, M. Cardenas, M. Olabarrieta, R. Medina, J. Receveur, E. Evrard, and J. Guyomarch. A high resolution operational oil spill model at Santander bay (Spain). International Oil Spill Conference Proceedings: May 2014, 2014, 1, 516-530.

Vela, J., B. Pérez, M. González, L. Otero, M. Olabarrieta, M. Canals, J.L. Casamor. Tsunami resonance in the Palma de Mallorca bay and harbor induced by the 2003 Iboumerdes-Zemmouri algerian earthquake (Western Mediterranean). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1, 32, currents.7., 2010.

Castanedo, S., A.J. Abascal, R. Medina, F. Fernandez, M. Liste, M. Olabarrieta, "Development of a GIS-based oil spill risk assessment system," in OCEANS 2009 - EUROPE 1-6, 11-14 May 2009, doi: 10.1109/OCEANSE.2009.5278283

Olabarrieta, M., R. Medina, I.J. Losada, F.J. Mendez. Proceedings of the 5th Coastal Structures International Conference, 2, 1728-1739, World Scientific, CSt07, Venice, Italy, 2 – 4, July 2007.

Olabarrieta, M., S. Castanedo, R. Medina, I.J. Losada and A.D. Gutierrez. An Operational Oceanography System for local areas in the Cantabrian Coast. Proceedings of the 17th International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, 3, 2007, 1728- 1735. ISBN 978-1-880653-68-5.

Blanco, R., M. Olabarrieta, A. Giardino, R. Banasiak, R. Verhoeve, and J. Monbaliu. Observed Suspended Sediment Profiles under the Effect of Single and Double Peaked Wave Spectra. Coastal Dynamics, 2005: 1-14. doi: 10.1061/40855(214)79, 2006.

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